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EXPENSIVE (more than 500 Kc)

• • • • Alcron The address for fresh seafood. If any restaurant will satisfy the discerning fish fan, it's this one. Stepanska 40, Prague 1 (at the Radisson SAS Alcron). Tel. 2282 0038. Open Mon.-Sat. 5:30-10:30 p.m. AmEx, Diners Club, Euro/ MC, Visa. 1,100-1,250 Kc.

• • • • Allegro Italian and international. Chef Vito Mollica blends masterful international cooking with regional specialties from Italy. Reasonably priced two- and three-course prix fixe lunch menus. Recommended: saffron risotto, pan-seared turbot, Domori chocolate cake. Veleslavinova 2a (at the Four Seasons Hotel), Prague 1. Tel. 2142 7000. Open daily 6:30 a.m.-midnight. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 1,900-2,800 Kc; lunch menus 950-1,150 Kc.

• • • Amici Miei Italian. Timelessly elegant atmosphere and polished service. Italian cooking at least two steps up from the average spaghetteria. Excellent wine list. Recommended: saltimbocca, eggplant parmigiano, swordfish. Vezenska 5, Prague 1- Old Town. Tel. 2481 6688. Open Mon.-Sat. 11-4, 6:30-11. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa

1,400-1,800 Kc.

• • • Archiv French with a local accent and an excellent wine list. Recommended: Saint Lupe roll with spinach and goat cheese, duck salad with chestnuts, fried shark, spinach tagliatelle and beef ragout a la mode. Masna 3, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2481 9297. Open daily 10 a.m.-midnight. AmEx, DC, Euro/MC, Farte, JCB, Visa. Stravenky. 500-600 Kc.

• • • Art Diogenes Greek. Sensuous dining as only the Greeks can do it. Choose from an "ancient" or "classic" Greek menu. Recommended: pork stuffed with plums, souvlaki, cheese with honey. Gorazdova 22, Prague 2. Tel. 2492 2645, fax: 2493 1220, e-mail: diogenes@mbox.cz, Web site: www.diogenes.cz. Open daily 11:30- 11:30. AmEx, Euro/MC, JCB, Visa. 600-800 Kc.

• • • • Barock Bar & Cafe Beautiful food for beautiful people: Thai and Japanese cuisine with a sprinkling of specialty Korean and Chinese dishes. Parizska 24, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 232 9221, fax: 232 1933, e-mail: bgoff@anete.cz . Open Mon.-Wed. 8:30 a.m.-1 a.m., Thurs.-Fri. 8:30 a.m.-2 a.m., Sat. and Sun. 10 a.m.-2 a.m. AmEx, DC, Euro/MC, Visa. 900-1,200 Kc.

• • • Bazaar Mediterranee Very chic. Labyrinthine interiors and marvellous views of Mala Strana from the terrace. Recommended: gazpacho, Moroccan meatballs in vegetable ragout, coq au vin with tagliatelli, couscous a la Marrakesh. Nerudova 40, Prague 1-Mala Strana. Tel. 5753 5050. Open daily 11 a.m.-midnight. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 500-1,200 Kc.

• • • • Bellevue A gorgeous castle view complements the world-class, nouvelle-style cuisine, served up in an atmosphere of formal elegance. Smetanovo nabr. 18, Prague 1. Tel. 2222 1438 or 2222 1439. Open Mon.- Sat. noon-3 p.m. and 5:30-11 p.m., Sun. 11 a.m.-3 p.m. for brunch and 7-11 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 1,200 Kc and up.

• • • • Le Bistrot de Marlene French. Informal bistro decor. The smallish menu concentrates on fresh, seasonal specials. Excellent starters and salads. Plavecka 4, Prague 2. Tel. 2492 1853, fax: 2492 0743. Open Mon.-Fri. noon-2:30 p.m. and 7- 10:30 p.m., Sat. 7-10:30 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 800-1,000 Kc.

• • • Bistro U Pava (Bistro at the Peacock) French and Italian. This small and cozy spot serves an excellent grilled salmon that won't leave you looking for more. An international wine list complements a menu that also includes tournedos and rabbit filet, as well as a few pasta selections. Kremencova 13, Prague 1. Tel. 2491 2893. Open daily 8 a.m.-11 p.m. Major credit cards. 500-700 Kc.

• • Brasserie Le Moliere French. Daily specials with an emphasis on freshness and quality. Americka 20, Prague 2. Tel. 9000 3345 or 9000 3344, fax: 232 8490, e-mail: marcelcz@inbox.vol.cz . Open Mon.-Fri. noon-3 p.m. and 7-11 p.m., Sat. 7-10:30 p.m. AmEx, Visa. Stravenky (Beck). 550-700 Kc.

• • • Brasserie Le Patio French. A stylish and modern interpretation of the classic Alsatian eatery. Recommended: the authentic choucroute garnie. V Celnici 4, Prague 1. Tel. 9632 5466. Open Mon.-Fri. 8 a.m.-midnight, Sat.-Sun. 10 a.m.-midnight. 600- 800 Kc.

• • • • Brasserie Praha (Inside the Prague Marriott hotel). International. Quality menus and excellent service make this an excellent choice for lunch, drinks or dinner. Recommended: seasonal specials; grilled swordfish. V Celnici 8, Prague 1. Tel. 2288 1212. Open daily 7:30 a.m.-12:30 a.m. Visa, AmEx, Euro/MC, JCB. 700- 1,000 Kc.

• • • • La Brise Simply outstanding French cooking. Try it. Recommended: Rybna 13, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2481 4909. Open Mon.-Fri. noon-2 p.m.; Mon.-Sat. 6-11 p.m. Major credit cards. 600-800 Kc.

• • • Le Cafe Colonial French and fashionable. Recommended: lapin aux champignons, travers de porc caramelise, miel et citronelle. Siroka 6, Prague 1. Tel. 2481 8322. Open daily 8:30 a.m.- 1 a.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa (1,000 Kc minimum). 700-800 Kc.

• • • • La Cambusa A very generous selection of seafood, including lobster. All dishes are served fresh and impeccably prepared. Klicperova 2, Prague 5. Tel. 5731 7949, fax: 5731 7921, e-mail: lacambusa@cmail.cz . Open Mon.-Sat. 7 p.m.- midnight. AmEx, DC, Euro/MC, Visa. 750-1,000 Kc.

• • • • Casablanca Moroccan and kosher. Rick's Cafe Americain it ain't, but Casablanca offers opulent surroundings, sincere service and creative cookery. Na Prikope 10, Prague 1. Tel. 2421 0519. Open daily 11:30 a.m.-midnight. AmEx, Diners Club, Euro/MC, Visa. 400-700 Kc.

• • • Cerberus Continental. Recommended: spaghetti with smoked salmon, potato gnocchi with sauerkraut and smoked meat mixed-grill flambe with wine sauce. Soukenicka 19, Prague 1 (near Revolucni). Tel. 2481 4118, fax: 231 0985, e-mail: cerb@volny.cz . Open Mon.-Fri. 11-11, Sat. 3-11 p.m., closed Sunday. AmEx, Euro/ MC, Visa. 700-800 Kc.

• • • • Cerny kohout (The Black Rooster) Czech. Elegant and remote. The perfect place for entertaining hard-to-impress visitors. Recommended: roast hare with shallots, roast boar with potato doughnuts. Bublavska 308, Prague 5. Tel. 5168 1191. Open Mon.-Fri. 11-10, Sat.-Sun. 11-11. No credit cards. 700-800 Kc.

• • • Chaos International. This waterfront establishment is aptly named in terms of decor. Dishes can vary from direct hits to mile-wide misses. Recommended: goose breast carpaccio, beef fillets with provolone, raspberries with mascarpone. Masarykovo nabrezi 26, Prague 1 (behind the National Theater). Tel. 2491 2900. Open daily 12-midnight. Euro/MC, Visa. 800-1,200 Kc.

• • • Chez Moi Good French food at modest prices. Largely undiscovered. Recommended: beef filet with roquefort, lamb cutlets "Chasseur." Tomasska 12, Prague 1-Mala Strana. Tel 5753 2344. Open daily noon-midnight. Major credit cards. 500-700 Kc.

• • • • Cinema Palace Hotel French. Elegance from another era. A peerless selection of fine wines. Recommended: lamb chops, duck livers in ginger sauce, Grand Marnier souffle. Vsenorska 45, Jiloviste 45. (Take highway R4 toward Strakonice, exit at Vsenory-Jiloviste.) Tel. 991 3285. Open daily, 11-11. Euro/MC, Visa. 900-1,100 Kc.

• • • • Circle Line Brasserie Continental. Impeccable service. Sophisticated yet cozy. The menu features a delicious assortment of starters, main courses and desserts. Malostranske nam. 12, Prague 1-Mala Strana. Tel. 5753 0021, fax: 5753 0023, e-mail: circleline@praguefinedining.cz . Open Mon.-Fri. noon-11 p.m., Sat. and Sun. 11-11. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 1,100-1,700 Kc.

• • • Delfy Greek. Recommended: octopus salad in vinegar marinade, mussel cakes in piquant mustard sauce, veal with caramelized shallots. Podolske nabr. 1, Prague 4. (Trams 3, 16, 17 to Dvorce stop.) Tel. 4446 3772. Open daily 11:30 a.m.-1 a.m. Euro/MC, Visa. 700-1,000 Kc.

• • • Dobromila Continental.

French and Czech influences mix it up in this ambitious restaurant. Excellent wine list. Recommended: Chicken fricassee, poached pear in chocolate with vanilla cream sauce. Jungmannova 10, Prague 1-New Town. Tel. 9624 6464. Open daily 11-1. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 600-1,000 Kc

• • • • Don Giovanni Top-of-the-line Italian. Classy food, service, atmosphere, castle view. Fresh fish. Rivals beware. Karoliny Svetle 34, Prague 1-Old Town (near Charles Bridge). Tel. 2222 2060 or 2222 2062, fax: 2222 1495, e-mail: dongio@mbox.vol.cz . Web site: www.dongiovanni.cz. Open daily, noon-midnight. AmEx, DC, Euro/MC, Visa. 600-800 Kc.

• • • Duplex International. The kitchen's got major skills, though service can be erratic on busy nights. Lunch specials offer the same successful Asian-inspired cooking at reduced prices. Recommended: Miso chicken salad, crab salad, pan- roasted sea bass. Vaclavske nam. 21, Prague 1. Tel. 5753 5050. Open daily noon- midnight. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 1,400-1,800 Kc.

• • • Earthen Bastion (Hlinena basta) A charming restaurant with a country ambience. Remote location, but worth the trip. Recommended: salmon and blackened mahi-mahi. Ujezdska, Pruhonice. Buses leave frequently from Opatov metro station. Tel. 6775 0700. Open daily noon-1 a.m. AmEx, Visa. 400-600 Kc.

• • • • Flambee Continental. Worth it just to watch the precise movements of the white-gloved servers. This arched cellar's cooking, service, atmosphere and presentation are all nearly flawless. Recommended: bluefin tuna tartare, lamb shoulder in crumb coat, cherry sorbet. Husova 5, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2424 8512. Open daily 11:30 a.m.-1 a.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 1,300-2,400 Kc.

• • • French restaurant in Obecni dum Spectacular setting for entertaining visitors. Surprisingly reasonable prices. Recommended: four-course Provencal and Czech menus for 790 Kc, salmon tartar, apricot Charlotte dessert in chocolate and coffee sauce. Nam. Republiky 5, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2200 2270. Open daily noon-3 p.m. and 6-11 p.m. Major credit cards. 550-950 Kc.

• • • • Gargoyle's Cool. Luxury dining without the dress code. Recommended: the adventurous 5-course chef's choice. Excellent lunch specials. Opatovicka 5, Prague 1 (behind the National Theater). Tel. 2493 4143. Open daily 11 a.m.-3 p.m., 5 p.m.- midnight. Kitchen closes at 11 p.m. Major credit cards. 700-800 Kc.

• • • El Gaucho Argentinean. Very big on beef. Cuts of all shapes and sizes, from juicy filets to burly T-bones. Great service, too. Vaclavske nam. 11, Prague 1. Tel. 2162 9410, fax: 2162 9599. Open daily 11:30 a.m.-midnight. AmEx, DC, Euro/MC, Visa. 500-700 Kc.

• • • Il Giardino International. Great views complement the Mediterranean cuisine. Excellent lunch specials. Recommended: saltimbocca alla romana, tuna steak a la nicoise, bouillabaisse. Mozartova 1 (inside the MOvenpick hotel), Prague 5-Smichov. Tel. 5715 4262. AmEx, DC, Euro/MC, Visa. 750-1,300 Kc.

• • • Gitanes Combines Latin, Slavic and Romany influences to lead diners on a pan-Mediterranean caravan. Recommended: sweet corn bread, stewed pork with vegetables. Trziste 7, Prague 1. Tel. 5753 0163. Open daily 11-11. Visa, Euro/MC. 700-800 Kc.

• • • • Hradcany Restaurant A formal, elegant setting for fine dining. Sushi buffet every Sunday, noon-2 p.m., 1,200 Kc per person. Hotel Savoy, Keplerova 8, Prague 1-Hradcany. Tel. 2430 2430. Open daily 6:30 a.m.-10:30 a.m., noon-2 p.m. and 6 p.m.-midnight. Major credit cards. 900-1,400 Kc.

• • • Le Jules Verne French. An excellent French wine list, but the cooking is just above average. Recommended: homemade terrine, scallops in pastis, chocolate fondant. Hastalske nam. 18, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2481 9767. Open Mon.-Fri. noon-4:30 and 7:30-1 a.m.; Sat. 7-11. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 900--1,700 Kc.

• • • • Kampa Park. Outstanding riverfront dining with a stellar new menu by chef Marek Raditsch. Recommended: everything. High points: seared Pacific pompano with truffle beurre blanc, grilled sea bass with herbed ravioli and tomato-vodka puree, desserts. Na Kampe 8b, Prague 1-Mala Strana. Tel. 5753 2685. Open daily 11:30 a.m. to 1 a.m. AmEx, DC, Euro/MC, JCB, Visa. 1,500-1,800 Kc.

• • • King Solomon Kosher. In the heart of the old Jewish quarter. Eat something! Recommended: gefilte fish, chicken soup, blue carp with prunes and potatoes. Siroka 8, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2481 8752. Open Sun.-Thurs. 11 a.m.-11 p.m., Fri. 11 a.m.-90 minutes before sunset. Visa, Euro/MC, AmEx. 900-1,500 Kc.

• • • Lvi dvur (Lion's Court) and Prazske selatko (Prague Piglet). Czech. An excellent eponymous dish and good starters make this an ideal meeting spot for locals and tourists. Recommended: salmon tartare, suckling pig, "Prazske selatko" house sparkling wine. U Prasneho mostu 6, Prague 1. Tel. 2437 2361. Open daily 10 a.m.-2 a.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 700-800 Kc.

• • • Mecca Eclectic. Trendy customers can feast their eyes while they dine. Recommended: grilled salmon with fluffy lemon mashed potatoes and fresh-cooked spinach, steak filet with potatoes au gratin, fresh strawberries with whipped cream and white pepper. U Pruhonu 3, Prague 7. Tel. 8387 0522. Open daily 11 a.m.-2 a.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 700-800 Kc.

• • • Mlyn. Croatian specialties, including seafood, and a homey atmosphere in Nebusice. Recommended: Palacinka Mlyn, Dalmatian fish soup, bream in rock salt. Horomericka 3a, Prague 6 (from Dejvicka metro, bus 161, 254 or 312 to Jeneralka). Tel. 2061 0760. Open daily 11 a.m.-midnight. Visa, AmEx, Euro/MC. 450-650 Kc.

• • • Mlynec (The Mill) A fusion of cuisines in an elegant cabaret setting. Children's corner for the little ones. Recommended: salmon sashimi in sesame seeds with mango chutney, beef filet tournedos. Novotneho lavka 9, Prague 1-Old Town (near Charles Bridge). Tel. 2108 2208. Open Mon.-Sat. 5-11 p.m. Major credit cards. 800- 1,200 Kc.

• • • • Naprstek (The Thimble) French with an international flair. Exquisite. Recommended: sliced duck liver baked in port wine, roast stuffed rabbit with garlic, creme catalane. Naprstkova 8, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2222 1019. Open daily, 11 a.m.-midnight. Major credit cards. 600-900 Kc.

• • • Palac Kinskych A truly impressive selection of wines complements the kitchen's classic Czech cuisine. Recommended: daily specials, especially the game dishes. Tynska 3, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2481 0750. Open daily noon-3 p.m., 6-11 p.m. Major credit cards. 1,000 Kc and up.

• • • Palffy palac A faded elegance and eccentric charm infuse this grand old dame of Prague dining. Don't miss Sunday brunch. Recommended: chicken stuffed with goat cheese, pork tenderloin in cognac sauce. Valdstejnska 14, Prague 1-Mala Strana. Tel. 5753 1420, fax: 5355 0203. Open daily 11 a.m.-midnight (kitchen closes at 10 p.m.). AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. Stravenky (Ticket restaurants, Accord). 500-700 Kc.

• • • Parnas Continental. An elegant setting with gorgeous views of Charles Bridge and the castle. Recommended: eel roasted with sage, poached trout in dark beer and duck breasts marinated in honey and ginger. Smetanovo nabr. 2, Prague 1 (near the National Theater). Tel. 2421 1901. Open daily 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. and 6-midnight. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 800-1,500 Kc.

• • • Le Patio Cafe, restaurant and posh furniture store all in one. Recommended: Moroccan chicken tajine, green salad with broiled goat cheese, carrot cake. Narodni 22, Prague 1. Tel. 2493 4375. Open Mon.-Fri. 8 a.m.-11 p.m., Sat.-Sun. 10 a.m.-11 p.m. AmEx, DC, Euro/MC, Visa. 600-800 Kc.

• • • Pasha Middle Eastern. A sumptuous setting with a wide variety of appetizers and delectable desserts. U luzickeho seminare 23, Prague 1-Mala Strana. Tel. 5753 2434, fax: 4491 0070, e-mail: restaurant@pasha.cz . Open Tues.-Sun. 11:30 a.m.- 11:00 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 500-1,000 Kc.

• • • Pavillion Restaurant Creative and abundant dishes are this hotel restaurant's strong suit. Recommended: steaks, salads and delicious desserts. At the Renaissance Hotel, V Celnici 7, Prague 1 (near Masarykovo nadrazi). Tel. 2182 2431. Open Mon.- Sat. 6:30-10:30 a.m., noon-2:30 p.m., 6-10:30 p.m. AmEx, Diners Club, Euro/MC, JCB, Visa. 1,000-1,200 Kc.

• • • Peklo (Hell) Continental. Relax, sinners! In this sophisticated cellar, only the Muzak is hellish. Recommended: stuffed devil's hoof, paella. Strahovske nadvori 1/ 132, Prague 1-Mala Strana (below the gardens of Strahov Monastery). Tel. 2051 6652. Open Mon. 6 p.m.-midnight, Tues.-Sun. noon-midnight. Major credit cards. 800-1,500 Kc.

• • • • La Perle de Prague French. Style abounds in this fantastic chamber atop one of Prague's newer architectural triumphs. Recommended: seafood gratinee with saffron sauce, eggplant rolls, poached turbot, French cheese plate. Rasinovo nabrezi 80 (inside the Dancing Building), Prague 2-New Town. Tel. 2198 4160. Open Tues.- Sat. noon-2, Mon.-Sat. 7-10:30. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 1,600-2,400 Kc.

• • • Pod kridlem (Under the Wing) Stylish Art Deco interior, gracious service and outstanding food. Recommended: tiger prawns with curry sauce, lamb cutlets, cod with veloute. On Vorsilska, Prague 1 (near the corner of Narodni). Tel. 2495 1741 or 2491 2377. Open Mon.-Fri. 10 a.m.-midnight, Sat.-Sun. 11:30 a.m.-midnight. Major credit cards. 500 Kc and up.

• • • • Pravda Hip. From the inventors of fine dining in Prague. Gracefully cool service complements the marvelous dishes. Recommended: Cajun crawfish, Vietnamese nem spring rolls, Scandinavian marinated salmon in mustard sauce. Parizska 17, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 232 6203. Open 11:30 a.m.-1 a.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 1,000-1,200 Kc.

• • • La Provence French. Once you get past the hubbub on the corner and upstairs, you'll find charming country dining downstairs. Recommended: the many excellent salads, coq au vin rouge, vegetables au gratin, cassoulet. Fun. Stupartska 9, Prague 1 (near Celetna). Tel. 232 4801. Open daily 8 a.m.-1 a.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 400-600 Kc.

• • • • Radnice Unexpectedly accomplished international cooking in deep Nusle. Recommended: deer flank with onions, roast duck with fig sauce. Taborska 500/30 Prague 4. Tel. 6119 2257. Open daily 11-11. AmEx, DC, Euro/MC, JCB, Visa. 600-700 Kc.

• • • Rasoi Indian. Big on tandoor and authentic treats from the subcontinent. The graceful cellar dining room is a hotbed of curries, dal and an impressive kurma. Dlouha 13, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 232 8400 or 232 4040, fax: 232 3340, e-mail: rasoi@volny.cz . Open daily 11:30-11:30 (Bombay Cocktail Bar open daily 6 p.m.- very late.) AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 400-600 Kc.

• • • Restaurant Sarah Bernhardt A local legend, elegant and very Art Nouveau. The name comes from the actress who inspired Alfons Mucha. Hotel Pariz, U Obecniho domu 1, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2219 5900, fax: 2422 5475, e-mail: booking@hold.pariz.cz . Open daily noon-4 p.m. and 6 p.m.-midnight. AmEx, Euro/ MC, Visa. 800-1,500 Kc.

• • • • Restaurant Voyta Czech. An elegant restaurant housed in a small hotel in the far reaches of Prague 4. Hotel Villa Voyta, K Novemu dvoru 124/54, Prague 4. Tel. 472 2711 or 472 2760, fax: 472 2918, e-mail: villavojta@btc.guide.cz . Open daily 7 p.m.-midnight. (Kitchen closes at 10 p.m.) AmEx, DC, Euro/MC, Visa. 700- 1,000 Kc.

• • • • Reykjavik Seafood and international dishes with a nouvelle touch. Recommended: "fruit of the ocean" soup, seared bluefin tuna on warm sesame salad base. Karlova 20, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2222 1218. Open daily 11 a.m.-midnight. Major credit cards. 500-800 Kc.

• • • • Rhapsody Piano Bar Restaurant Continental. A sophisticated, intimate space with live music after 9:30 p.m. Escargots and steaks are particularly noteworthy. Dukelskych hrdinu 46, Prague 7. Tel. 80 67 68. Open daily except Sun. 6:30 p.m.-2 a.m. AmEx, Diners Club, Euro/ MC, JCB, Visa. 1,000-1,500 Kc.

• • • • Il Ritrovo Spaghetteria As Italian as it gets. Excellent pastas in a warm family setting. Recommended: ravioli al funghi, tagliatelle amatriciana. Lublanska 11, Prague 2. Tel. 2426 1475. Open Mon.-Sat., noon-3 p.m., 6-11 p.m. Euro/MC, Visa. 500-700 Kc.

• • • • La Rotonde Continental. A restaurant of the highest caliber. Superb wine list. Recommended: foie gras, fresh fish specials, duck breast with balsamic honey glaze. Stepanska 40, Prague 1 (at the Radisson SAS Alcron). Tel. 2282 0111. Open daily 6:30 a.m.-11 p.m. AmEx, Diners Club, Euro/MC, Visa. 1,100-1,250 Kc.

• • • Rybi trh (The Fish Market) Seafood. The available fish is prepared according to your particular pleasure and served with a choice of sauces. Tyn 5, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2489 5447, fax: 2489 5449. Open daily 11 a.m.-midnight. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. Around 1,000- 1,200 Kc.

• • • Siam-I-San Prague's finest Thai food. Outlandish design by architect and designer Borek Sipek. Recommended: curries, tom kha gai, nuer sa wan. Valentinska 11, Prague 1-Old Town (in the Arzenal gallery). Tel. 2481 4099. Open daily, 10 a.m.-midnight. 500-800 Kc.

• • • • Stodola (The Barn) Czech. The old Bohemian atmosphere is a touch kitschy but the service is outstanding and the traditional Czech cooking is genuinely accomplished. Owned by the Corinthia group. Motel Konopiste, Benesov u Prahy (off Highway E55, near Konopiste castle). Tel. (0301) 22 732. Open daily 6 p.m.-1 a.m. Diners Club, Euro/MC, JCB, Visa. 700-850 Kc.

• • Sultan A wondrous selection of mezze appetizers like hummus, tabbouleh and baba ghanouj, and lesser-known delights await explorers of Lebanese cuisine. Podolske nabr. 1, Prague 4. Tel. 4446 6465. Open daily noon-midnight. AmEx, Euro/ MC, Visa, JCB. 500-700 Kc.

• • • Svata Klara (St. Claire) Continental. Excellent cooking in a fairy-tale setting. Recommended: game ragout, pheasant breast in sage sauce, veal filets with chicken liver. U Trojskeho zamku 35/9, Prague 7 (directly across from Troja castle and adjoining the zoo). Tel. 688 0405. Open daily 7 p.m.-1 a.m. Major credit cards. 800- 1,200 Kc.

• • • Tamura Sushi bar, starting around 300 Kc for a small plate. Fixed-price menu, starting at 1,200 Kc: very small, very good courses. Teppan-yaki and other grilled specialties. n la carte menu available at Havelska location. Three locations: Havelska 6, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel./fax: 2422 9002. Open daily 11-11; Krizovnicka 4, Prague 1-Old Town. Open Mon.-Sat. 11-11. (Kitchen closes at 10:30 p.m.) Tel. (0607) 57 23 34; and at the Ruzyne airport transit area. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 500-1,500 Kc.

• • T.G.I. Friday's Zealous attention to customer service, an Americanized atmosphere and a large selection of standard favorites including potato skins, nachos, burgers and grilled shrimp. Na Prikope 27. Tel. 2218 4301. Open Sun.-Thurs. 11 a.m.-midnight, Fri. and Sat. 11 a.m.-1 a.m. AmEx, Diner's Club, Euro/MC, Visa. 500-600 Kc.

• • • • Trocadero Restaurant and wine bar. A perfect vision of French cuisine. Recommended: duck a la perigourdine, lamb a la Provencale. Betlemska 9, Prague 1. Tel. 2222 0716. Open daily 11 a.m.-midnight. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 600-800 Kc.

• • • U Cedru (At the Cedar) Lebanese. Appetizers are delectable and can make a full meal. Recommended: tabbouleh salad, hummus, stuffed grape leaves, kibbe akras. Na Hutich 13, Prague 6. (Enter around corner on Narodni obrany.) Tel. 312 2974. Open daily 11-11. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 500-700 Kc.

• • U Cerveneho kola (At the Red Wheel) Steaks. Near the St. Agnes Monastery. Excellent snails in herb butter. Otherwise, it's best to stick with the steaks. Anezska 2, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. and fax: 2481 1118. Open daily 11 -11. AmEx, Diners Club, Euro/MC, JCB, Visa. 400-600 Kc.

• • • U Kamenneho mostu (At the Stone Bridge) Czech and French. Two restaurants in one location at the Old Town end of Charles Bridge. Smetanovo nabr. 195, Prague 1. Tel. 2409 7100. Open daily noon-1 a.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 800- 1,000 Kc.

• • • • U Maltezskych rytiru (At the Knights of Malta) Continental. Cozy and gracious. Recommended: filet mignon, venison Chateaubriand, homemade apple strudel. Prokopska 10, Prague 1-Mala Strana (off Karmelitska). Tel. 5753 3666, fax: 5753 1324, e-mail: vcernich@mbox.vol.cz . Open daily 11-11. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 800-1,000 Kc.

• • U Mecenase (At the Patron) They say Vaclav IV frequently tied one on here. Old-timers will find it a bit touristy. Recommended: mushroom soup, duck stuffed with red cabbage. Malostranske nam. 10, Prague 1-Mala Strana. Tel. 5753 1631. Open Mon.-Fri. 5-11:30 p.m., Sat. and Sun. 1-11:30 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 500 Kc and up.

• • • • U Modre kachnicky (At the Blue Duck) Game. Intimate and esteemed. Recommended: duck roasted with pears, boar steak with forest mushrooms. Not recommended: visiting the other location on Nebovidska. Michalska 16, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2421 3418. Open daily 11:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m. Visa, AmEx, Euro/MC. 700- 900 Kc.

• • U Modre ruze (At the Blue Rose) Set in a 15th-century wine cellar. Recommended: turtle soup, rattlesnake, alligator, lamb with mint sauce. Rytirska 16, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2422 5873 or 2422 2623. Open daily 11:30-11:30. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 700-900 Kc.

• • • U Sevce Matouse (At the Cobbler Matous) Steaks. A dozen filets mignon and other grilled cuts, all fired to near-perfection. Loretanske nam. 4, Prague 1- Hradcany. Tel. 2051 4536. Open daily 11 a.m.-4 p.m. and 6-11 p.m. Euro/MC, Visa. 400-700 Kc.

• • • • U Patrona Two tiny, charming rooms, outstanding service and cuisine that meets sophisticated standards. Drazickeho nam. 4, Prague 1-Mala Strana (near Charles Bridge). Tel. 5753 0725, fax: 5753 0723, e-mail: upatrona@email.cz . Open daily except Sun., 6 p.m.-11:30 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 700-1,000 Kc.

• • • U Petrske veze (At Peter's Tower) Luxurious and rewarding. Recommended: game salad with grapefruit and escargots, trout filet with dill sauce and mushrooms, turkey steak with almonds. Petrska 12, Prague 1. Tel. 232 9856. Open Mon.-Fri. noon-midnight, Sat. and Sun. 6 p.m.-1 a.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 700-1,500 Kc.

• • • U Tri houslicek (At the Three Little Violins) Traditional, well-prepared Bohemian fare. The pepper steak is particularly noteworthy. Nerudova 12, Prague 1- Mala Strana. Tel. 5753 2062. Open 11:30 a.m.-midnight. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 500- 600 Kc.

• • • U Vladare (At the Sovereign) Recommended: leg of boar in garlic and juniper berries, roast goose with cabbage and dumplings. Maltezske nam. 10, Prague 1-Mala Strana. Tel. 5753 4121. Open daily noon-3 p.m. and 6 p.m.-midnight. AmEx, DC, Euro/MC, JCB, Visa. 500-700 Kc.

• • U Zlate hrusky (At the Golden Pear) A picturesque restaurant in romantic Novy Svet. Recommended: blini with salmon, venison with pears and millet gnocchi, loin of veal with mixed berries. Novy Svet 3, Prague 1-Hradcany. Tel. 2051 4778, fax: 2051 5356. Open daily 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. and 6 p.m.-midnight (garden open 11 a.m.- midnight). AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 1,000-1,500 Kc.

• • • U Zlate studne (At the Golden Well) Stunning views and an elegant setting for a superior Continental dining experience. Recommended: Baked monkfish with saffron risotto and red butter sauce, roast duck breast in coriander sauce. U Zlate studne 4. Prague 1-Mala Strana. Open daily 7-11 a.m., noon-4 p.m., 6-11 p.m. Tel. 5753 3322. Euro/MC, Visa. 700-1,000 Kc.

• • • • V Zatisi (Still Life) World-class dining in an elegant, comfortable setting. This may be Prague's favorite restaurant. Liliova 1, Betlemske namesti, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2222 1155. Open daily noon-3 p.m. and 5:30-11 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 700-1,500 Kc.

• • • • Vojanuv dvur (Vojan's Courtyard) Continental. Gorgeously appointed restaurant and former home to the National Theater's Eduard Vojan. Recommended: lamb gigot. U Luzickeho seminare 21, Prague 1-Mala Strana. Tel. 5753 3779. Open daily 10:30 a.m.-midnight. AmEx, Euro/MC, JCB, Visa. 750-900 Kc.

MODERATE (300-500 Kc)

• • • Ambiente Bright and lively American-style dining. Excellent service. Reservations a must. Recommended: barbecued chicken wings, grilled steaks, chocolate "pick-me-up" fondue. Manesova 59, Prague 2. Tel. 2272 7851 or 2272 7858. Open Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-midnight, Sat. and Sun. 1 p.m.-midnight. (Kitchen closes at 11:30 p.m.) AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 250-350 Kc.

• • Ambiente Pasta Fresca Italian. Reliable eats in the center, but you'll find better noodles elsewhere. Lively atmosphere. Recommended: cotoletta do agnello con spinaci, filetto ala griglia, fettuccine al salmone. Celetna 11, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2423 0244. Open daily 11 a.m.-midnight (cafe open 9 a.m.-midnight). Major credit cards. 300-500 Kc.

• • Barracuda Cafe Tex-Mex, or close to it. A good bet. Try the Buffalo wings or the Uruguayan beefsteak. Krymska 2, Prague 10. Tel. 7174 0599. Open Mon-Fri, 11:30- 11:30, Sat. and Sun. 5-11:30 p.m. No credit cards. Stravenky. 200-300 Kc.

• • Blinis Bar Jewish. If the thick, heart-warming blinis won't make you quit your kvetching, the selection of Russian vodkas certainly will. Recommended: blinis with sour cream and smoked salmon, Moskovskaya Osovaya and Gzhelka vodkas. Maiselova 16, Prague 1-Josefov. Tel. 2481 2463. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 300-500 Kc.

• • Buffalo Bill's Tex-Mex. They lay on the saloon theme a bit thick here, but the food is very down home. Good salads. Vodickova 9, Prague 1. Tel. 2494 8624. Open daily noon-midnight. Major credit cards. 350-550 Kc.

• • • • Cafe Atelier International. Haute cuisine at Vrsovice prices. Excellent French wines. This stylish and informal eatery is a welcome addition to Prague 10. Recommended: tomato millefeuille, rabbit with dijon mustard, veal kidneys, game dishes, chocolate mousse. Na Kovarne 8, Prague 10-Vrsovice (trams 4, 22 or 23 to Vrsovicke nam.) Tel. 7172 1866. Open Mon.-Sat. 11:45 a.m.-midnight. No credit cards. 350-550 Kc.

• • • Cafe Flambee International. The informal setting offers a taste of Flambee restaurant's cooking for those of us in a lower tax bracket. Recommended: salads, baked tomatoes stuffed with walnut, shrimp risotto, braised pheasant. Husova 5, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2440 1236. www.flambee.cz. Open daily 11-11. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 300-600 Kc.

• • • Caffe-Ristorante Italia Recommended: lasagne with meat and bechamel sauce, four-cheese pasta. Nerudova 17, Prague 1-Mala Strana. Tel. 5753 2818. Open daily 9 a.m.-11 p.m. AmEx. 400-500 Kc.

• • • Cantina Very nearly Tex-Mex. A colorful, good-time setting for fabulous fajitas and good margaritas. Always a-buzz, so book ahead. Ujezd 38, Prague 1-Mala Strana. Tel. 5731 7173. Open daily noon-midnight. Major credit cards. 300-500 Kc.

• • • Casa Mia An opulent setting for outstanding seafood. Affordable pizzas, too. Vodickova 17, Prague 1. Tel. 9623 8202. Open daily 11-11. Euro/MC, Visa. 300-500 Kc.

• • El Centro Spanish. Simple, hearty dishes and rustic charm. Recommended: paella, grilled beefsteak. Maltezske nam. 9, Prague 1-Mala Strana. Tel. 5753 3343. Open daily 11 a.m.-1 a.m. or later. Major credit cards. 330-500 Kc.

• • • Cerny kun (The Black Horse) Czech / Slovak. Highly recommened halusky, excellent lamb chops and a fabulous south Bohemian kolac are but three of excellent dishes in this airy, modern cellar. Vodickova 36 (inside Palac Lucerna) Prague 1-New Town. Open daily 11-11. AmEx, Euro/MC, DC, Visa. 350-625 Kc.

• • Cervena tabulka (The Red Chalkboard). Continental. A comfortable country eatery in the heart of the city. English menu available. Recommended: foie gras, chicken salad with peaches, fried plums with Baileys sauce. Lodecka 4, Prague 1 (near metro Namesti Republiky). Tel. 2481 0401. Open Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m.-11 p.m., Sun. 11:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 400-700 Kc.

• • Charleston Italian. This Jazz Age joint is yet another best-kept secret. Good cocktails and lots of noodles. Recommended: tortellini alla Bolognese, penne Calabrese, peach Melba. Krizikova 55, Prague 8. Tel. 232 2098. Open Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.-2 a.m., Sun. 4 p.m.-2 a.m. No credit cards. Around 350 Kc.

• • • Chez Marcel French. A brasserie popular with locals and expats. Recommended: daily specials, pepper steak, pCte. Hastalska 12, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2231 5676, fax: 232 8490, e-mail: marcelcz@inbox.vol.cz . Open Mon.-Fri. 8 a.m.-1 a.m., weekends 9 a.m.-1 a.m. (Kitchen open noon-11 p.m.) No credit cards. 200-500 Kc.

• • • Cicala Italian. Imagine Mama running a restaurant near I.P. Pavlova. Fresh fish on Wednesdays and Thursdays (call ahead). Recommended: any catch of the day, spaghetti aglio e olio, mare e monti. Zitna 43, Prague 2 (near I.P. Pavlova metro). Tel. 2221 0375. Open Mon.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Closed Sun. No credit cards. 350-750 Kc.

• • Cinska restaurace Tai Wan Chinese. Authentic, right down to the plastic ivy and ceramic dogs. Good service. Recommended: steamed dumplings, Szechuan duck. Vinohradska 48, Prague 2. Tel. and fax: 2424 7549. Open daily 11 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5:30-11 p.m. No credit cards. Stravenky. Around 400 Kc.

• • Dlouha zed (The Great Wall) Chinese. An elegant setting somewhat off the beaten path. Reliable. Pujmanove 10, Prague 4, Pankrac (bus 193 to Sidliste Pankrac). Tel. 692 2374. Open Tues.-Sun. 11 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5:30-11 p.m. AmEx. 250-500 Kc.

• • • Dong Do Vietnamese. Standards and more. Excellent quality. Recommended: frogs' legs, eel, shark-fin soup, duck. Vitezne nam. 4, Prague 6. Tel. (0724) 04 07 27. Open daily except Sun. 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5-11 p.m. 300-350 Kc.

• • • Dynamo A hip, modernist diner great for people-watching. Recommended: liver and onions, marinated tongue in black sauce, single-malt scotches. Pstrossova 29, Prague 1 (behind the National Theater). Tel. 2493 2020. Open Mon.-Fri. 10:30 a.m.-midnight. AmEx, DC, Euro/MC, Visa. Stravenky. 350-500 Kc.

• • Faros Greek standards in upper Mala Strana. Genteel surroundings. Combination plates for parties of four offer good value. Sporkova 5, Prague 1-Mala Strana. Tel. 5753 3964. Open daily noon-11 p.m. Major credit cards. 400-500 Kc.

• • • Fondue Do it yourself. Don't confuse this cellar space with the ground-floor snack bar. Recommended: chicken in Chinese herbs, pork in curry. Slezska 20, Prague 2. Tel. 2425 0459. Open daily 11:30 a.m.-1 a.m. AmEx, Visa, Euro/MC. 200- 300 Kc.

• • Hajovna (The Gamekeeper's Lodge) A lodge for your inner hunter. Recommended: mushroom pie, fallow deer with cranberry sauce, rabbit medallions rolled in crushed hazelnuts. Ondrickova 29, Prague 3. Tel. 627 0193. Open daily 11- 11. AmEx, Euro/MC Visa. 300-600 Kc.

• • • Hanil (Korean and Japanese). Some of Prague's best sushi, although the authentic Korean plates are an even greater comfort for the homesick. Service can lag. Recommended: sushi platters, bibim bap, bulgogi. Slavikova 24, Prague 3-- Zizkov. Tel. 2271 5867. Open Mon.-Sat. 11:30-2:30, 6-11. No credit cards. 400-700 Kc.

• • Highland Steaks. Organic beef from dreadlocked highland cattle makes for a healthy, flavorful alternative in this informal neighborhood chophouse. Recommended: the 500-gram highland steak, steak marinated in Jack Daniels whiskey, archivni vino. Baranova 13, Prague 3-Zizkov (Metro Flora or Jiriho z Podebrad). Open Mon.-Sat. 11-10, Sun. 3-10. No credit cards. 400-650 Kc.

• • • • Hotel Diana Game. Well worth the trip to Rajska Zahrada metro station. The kulajda soup is not to be missed. Recommended: boar with plums, almond and potato croquettes, fallow deer medallions in blackberry and raspberry sauce. Hurska 12, Prague 9. Tel. 6661 0060, fax: 8186 8351, e-mail: kuchar@mbox.vol.cz . Open daily noon-11 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 300-500 Kc.

• • • Jalapenos Mexican. Might not be just like home, but Jalapenos does a Westerner's heart good. Texas roadhouse decor and good Southwestern dishes. Recommended: chicken tacos, nachos supreme, frozen margaritas. Valentinska 8, Prague 1 (Metro: Staromestska). Tel. 2231 2925. Open daily 11 a.m.-midnight. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 350-450 Kc.

• • • Kogo Italian. Attention to detail is no stranger to this trendy establishment. Fresh, well-prepared favorites and specialties served by an impeccable waitstaff. Havelska 27, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2421 4543. Open daily 8 a.m.-11 p.m. Also at Slovansky dum, Na Prikope 22. Tel. 2145 1259. Open daily 8 a.m.-midnight. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 300-600 Kc.

• • Kojak's American and Tex-Mex. The extensive menu takes few risks. Anny Letenske 16, Prague 2. Tel. 2225 0594. Open Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-midnight, Sat.- Sun. 3 p.m.-midnight. No credit cards. 250-400 Kc.

• • • Kolkovna (The Stamp Office) Czech. Good friends, good times -- tonight is kind of special. Well-pulled Pilsner Urquell and great eats bring a new dimension to the traditional hospoda. No green tablecloths. Recommended: marinated pork ribs, Prague ham with apples and horseradish, trout fillets in almond crust. V kolkovne 8, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2481 9701. Open daily 11-11. AmEx, DC, Euro/MC, Visa. 300-375 Kc.

• • • Maestro Italian. Pizzas and more. Recommended: vitello alla crema, chicken cacciatore. Krizovnicka 10, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 232 0294, fax: 232 0498. Mon.- Fri. 11-11, Sat.-Sun. 1-11 p.m. Visa, Euro/MC. Stravenky (Gastroturkey). 300-400 Kc.

• • • Mailsi Pakistani. Spicy, well-prepared dishes served up in a cozy, friendly atmosphere. Recommended: dal, lamb kurma, house specialty chicken Mailsi. Lipanska 1, Prague 3-Zizkov. Tel. (0603) 46 66 26 or 2271 7783. Open daily 11 a.m.- 1 a.m. No credit cards. 300-400 Kc.

• • • Mama Lucy Mexican. A stylish interior of white brick walls, bench seating, industrial lamps and Western photos. The food is good, too. Recommended: sopa azteca, tacos veracruz, chicken tostadas. Dlouha 2, Prague 1 (off Old Town Square). Tel. 232 7207.Open daily 11 a.m.-midnight. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 350-450 Kc.

• • Miyabi Japanese. Intriguing setting, but weak on the sushi. Recommended: tempura and teriyaki dishes. Navratilova 10, Prague 1 (near Vodickova). Tel. 9623 3102, fax: 9623 3104. Open daily 11-11. Visa, Euro/MC. 350-500 Kc.

• • • • Modra reka (The Blue River) A wonderfully small mom-and-pop place serving traditional -- and excellent -- Yugoslav dishes. Recommended: cevapcici, gibanica, tifahija. Manesova 13, Prague 2. Tel. 2225 1601. Open Mon.-Fri. 11-11, Sat.-Sun. 5-11 p.m. No credit cards. 250-350 Kc.

• • Mongolian Barbecue All-you-can-eat grilled meats makes for good value, but don't expect to be overwhelmed by atmosphere. Take your less-demanding friends. Slovansky dum, Na Prikope 22, Prague 1. Tel. 2145 1272. Open daily, 11 a.m.- midnight. Major credit cards. 300-500 Kc.

• • • Myslivna (The Hunting Lodge) A warm, rustic atmosphere and a menu that offers deer, quail and wild boar, all excellently prepared and presented with style. Hearty, homemade soups and large salads are also available. Jagellonska 21, Prague 3. Tel. 627 0209, fax: 627 0201. Open Mon.-Fri. noon-4 p.m. and 5-11 p.m., Sat.- Sun. 6-11 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 300-500 Kc.

• • • Olympos Greek. Homey, assuming your home is decorated with trompe l'oeil landscapes. Diners are advised to book ahead. Recommended: babaganoush, tsatsiki, mixed grill. Kubelikova 9, Prague 3-Zizkov. Tel. 2272 2239. Open daily noon-midnight. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 300-500 Kc.

• • • Orso Bruno (Bruno the Bear) A quintessential neighborhood Italian restaurant. Expertly prepared pastas at reasonable prices. Recommended: penne melanzane, veal scallopini, chicken cacciatore. Za Poricskou branou 16, Prague 8. Tel. and fax: 2231 0178. Open daily 11 a.m.-3 p.m., 6-11:30 p.m. Euro/MC, Visa. 300-600 Kc.

• • • La Palma Italian. A bright, lively space with good pizzas, great pastas and melanzani al forno. A delectable tiramisu. Na hrazi 32, Prague 8 (near Palmovka metro). Tel. 6832 7640. Open daily 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Stravenky. Around 300 Kc.

• • Peking Classy. A wide selection of Chinese standards. Good for entertaining. Recommended: chicken with vegetables, pork kung-pao, fried sesame balls. Legerova 64, Prague 2. Tel. 2252 0888. Open daily 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. AmEx, Euro/ MC, Visa. 300-500 Kc.

• • • Ponte Thoroughly international. Recommended: marinated pork slices and eggplant, roasted rabbit with mixed vegetables, moussaka. Anglicka 15, Prague 2. Tel. 2422 1665. Open daily 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. AmEx, Visa, Euro/MC. 350-500 Kc.

• • Portobello Road Western-style comfort food in a colorful setting. Recommended: caesar salad, filet beefsteak Portobello, coconut chicken wings. Americka 18, Prague 2-Vinohrady. Tel. 691 1882. Open Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-midnight. Sat.-Sun. 4 p.m.-midnight. No credit cards. 300-500 Kc.

• • • Posezeni U Ciriny (Gathering at Cirina's) Slovak/Hungarian. Hearty cooking from the Slovak countryside. The secret is out -- reservations for this modest eatery are advised. Recommended: beef tartare, pork "Liu," chicken with yellow curry. Navratilova 6, Prague 1-New Town. Tel. 2223 1709. Open Mon.-Sat. 11-11. No credit cards. 400-700 Kc.

• • • Posledni stace (The Last Resort) A casual, modish grill bar in the heart of Old Town. Good food, better face-time. Dlouha 7, Prague 1. Tel. 2481 8320. Open daily 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Euro/MC, Visa. 300-600 Kc.

• • • Puccelini A musical dining experience in Holesovice: pizzas, pastas and vinos from Italy. Recommended: linguine with cuttlefish, baked aubergine with artichoke hearts. Tusarova 52, Prague 7-Holesovice. Tel. 8387 1134. Open Mon.-Fri. 11-11, Sat.-Sun. noon-11. AmEx, DC, Euro/MC, JCB, Visa. 400-500 Kc.

• • • Red Hot & Blues Your best bet for Cajun, Tex-Mex and American all in one. Brunch on weekends. Live music nightly. Recommended: eggplant creole, Bourbon Street pork. Jakubska 12, Prague 1 (behind the Kotva department store). Tel 2231 4639. Open daily 9 a.m.-11 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 300-450 Kc.

• • • Red Room Lit and decorated like an elegant bordello, this hip cocktail lounge boasts good food as well. Weekend brunch. Recommended: several varieties of cheeseburger, infused vodkas. Kremencova 17, Prague 1 (behind the National Theater). Tel. 2491 6047. Open daily 11 a.m.-1 a.m. (Kitchen closes at 11 p.m.) Major credit cards. Around 300 Kc.

• • Solidni nejistota (Solid Uncertainty) A new twist on the bar and grill. Grilled specialties offer excellent value. Trendy. Pstrossova 21, Prague 1 (behind the National Theater). Tel. 2493 3086. Open daily 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Major credit cards. 200-400 Kc.

• • • Stoleti (Century) Dishes named for luminaries of the past hundred years. Diners are advised: The kitchen tends to undercook the steaks. Recommended: Ernest Hemingway (tenderloin in flaming gin sauce), Marlene Dietrich (a stuffed avocado with whipped Roquefort and marzipan). Karoliny Svetle 21, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. and fax: 2222 0008. Open daily noon-midnight. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. Stravenky (Sodexpox). 400-600 Kc.

• • Sushi Bar Small, bright and ultra-modern, resembling a hip cafe or bistro. All the sushi standards are tasty, but the Temaki (hand rolls) are especially good. Take out and delivery also available. Zborovska 49, Prague 5-Mala Strana. Tel. (0603) 24 48 82. Open daily 11 a.m.-10 p.m. (last order at 9:30). Visa, Euro/MC, DC, JCB. 300-600 Kc.

• • • Taj Mahal Indian. Relaxed and welcoming. Great service and plenty of spice. Skretova 10, Prague 2 (behind the National Museum). Tel. 2422 5566, fax: 2224 0315. Open Mon.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m., Sun. 2:30-10:30 p.m. Major credit cards. 250-500 Kc.

• • • U Bile kravy (At the White Cow) A high-quality steakhouse with a French accent. Recommended: steak a la country. Rubesova 10, Prague 2 (behind the National Museum). Tel. 2423 9570 or 2423 9571. Open daily 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Major credit cards. 300-500 Kc.

• • U Certa (At the Devil) A modest eatery of Czech and international extraction. Good service and wine list. Nerudova 4, Prague 1-Mala Strana. Tel. 5753 1526. Open daily 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Major credit cards. 300-450 Kc.

• • U Kalicha (At the Chalice) Czech. The Good Soldier Svejk made a date with a friend here for "six in the evening after the war." Lots of atmosphere. Standard Czech fare. Na Bojisti 12-14, Prague 2. Tel. 9618 9600. Open daily 11 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5-10 p.m. AmEx, Diners Club, JCB, Visa. 350-500 Kc.

• • U Pastyrky (At the Shepherdess) Slovak. Don't call it Czech. A log cabin with a large beer garden in front and a huge open hearth where cooks prepare steaks and chickens on the grill. Belehradska 15, Prague 4. Tel. 2256 0572. Open daily 6 p.m.-1 a.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 350-400 Kc.

• • • U Poctu (At the Postal Worker) Czech. Old-fashioned, like a daguerreotype come to life. Milady Horakove 47, Prague 7. Tel. 3337 1419. Open Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.- midnight, Sat.-Sun. 5 p.m.-midnight. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 200-300 Kc.

• • U Provaznice (At the Ropemaker's) Czech. Old pub atmosphere borders on the zany. Good beer, good prices, good location. Recommended: goulash, "the ropemaker's beautiful wife's platter," pear strudel. Provaznicka 3, Prague 1 (near Mustek). Tel. 2423 2528. Open daily 10:30 a.m.-midnight. No credit cards. 200-400 Kc.

• • • U Rychtare (At the Magistrate) Just off Old Town Square. Pastas, pizzas, fish and vegetarian dishes in abundance. Dlouha 2, Prague 1-Old Town. (Note: The restaurant is separate from the next-door pub, Pivnice U Rychtare.) Tel. 232 7207. Open daily 11-11. Major credit cards. 200-300 Kc.

• • • U Tri zlatych hvezd (At the Three Little Golden Stars) Czech. The menu adds a touch of class to the standard dishes. Romantics should request a table in the pastel-toned downstairs room with its private nooks and quiet corners. Malostranske nam. 8, Prague 1-Mala Strana. Tel./fax: 5753 1636. Open daily 11:30-11:30. Euro/ MC, Visa. 400-500 Kc.

• • Valmont Pub-like. Very good service and above-average cooking. A good bet for lunch in the center. Steaks are the kitchen's forte. Parizska 19, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. and fax: 232 7260. Open daily 9 a.m.-midnight. (Kitchen open 10 a.m.-10:30 p.m.) AmEx, Euro/MC, Maestro, Visa (500 Kc minimum). 350-500 Kc.

• • • Vas-y Vas-y French. Informal and close. Inspired dishes of rare craftsmanship. Affordable lunch specials. Recommended: cod with walnuts and blue cheese, rabbit with plums. Pstrossova 8, Prague 1 (behind the National Theater). Tel. 2493 0156. Open Mon.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. (Bar open until 1 a.m.) No credit cards. 200-450 Kc.

• • • • Zahrada v opere (Garden at the Opera) Fine dining before, during and after State Opera performances. Light, fairy-tale modern decor. Legerova 75, Prague 1 (behind Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty). Tel. 2423 9685. Open daily 11:30 a.m.-1 a.m. (Kitchen closes at midnight.) AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 300-600 Kc.

• • • Zlata ulicka (The Little Golden Lane) Yugoslav. Tiny, friendly and home-style. Recommended: diplomaticke palacinky, baked apple with nuts. Masna 9, Prague 1- Old Town. Tel. 232 0884. Open daily, 9 a.m.-midnight. (Kitchen closes at 11:30 p.m.) Stravenky. 250-300 Kc.

• • Zvonarka This restaurant/discotheque looks like a Miami Vice set, but the kitchen backs up the style with substance. Recommended: yakitori, baked leek in Balkan dough. Safarikova 1, Prague 2-Vinohrady, Tel. 2425 1990. Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m. to 2 a.m., Sun. 11 a.m.-midnight. Visa, Euro/MC. 300-400 Kc.

INEXPENSIVE (under 300 Kc)

• • • Ariana Afghan. Curious culinary voyagers are advised to stop for Sardar Saleh's genuine hospitality and well-spiced Afghan fare. Recommended: karaji copan, borani bamia-okr, calou. Ramova 6, Prague 1. Tel. 232 3438. Open daily 11- 11. No credit cards. 350-500 Kc.

• • Azteca Mexican. No three-alarm fires here, but the portions are generous and the service exudes an almost-Southwestern hospitality. Not a bad option. Ramova 4, Prague 1 (off Dlouha). Tel. 2481 5783. Open daily 10 a.m.-midnight. Euro/MC, Visa. 200-400 Kc.

• • • Bar Bar Diverse, fresh ingredients make for whimsical crepes and galletes. Good salads, too. Recommended: crepes Dublin and Paris. Vsehrdova 17, Prague 1- Mala Strana. Tel. 5731 2246. Open daily noon-11 p.m. Euro/MC, Visa. Stravenky. 150-250 Kc.

• • Bohemia Bagel Fresh bagels of many varieties, sandwiches and homemade soups. Bottomless cups of coffee. Recommended: muffins, brownies and cheesecakes. Ujezd 16, Prague 1-Mala Strana. Tel. 5731 0694. Open daily, 7 a.m.-2 a.m. Also at Masna 2, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2481 2560. Open Mon.-Fri. 7 a.m.- midnight. Sat.-Sun. 8 a.m.-midnight. No credit cards. 40-150 Kc.

• • • Break Cafe A smart cafe with good service. Light breakfasts served daily. Gourmet dinner menu. Recommended: salad Napoleon, salmon quiche, daily pasta specials. Stepanska 32, Prague 1. Tel. and fax: 2223 1065. Open Mon.-Fri. 8 a.m.-11 p.m. Sat. 9:30 a.m.-7 p.m. No credit cards. Stravenky. 200-300 Kc.

• • • Cafe Fiesta Czech-Mex of a higher caliber. Well-priced daily lunch specials. Recommended: Aztec soup, carne asada. Vaclavkova 2, Prague 6. Tel. 2432 4448. Open Mon.-Thur. 8 a.m.-11 p.m., Fri. 8 a.m.-11:30 p.m., Sat. 10 a.m.-11:30 p.m., Sun. noon-11 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa 250-350 Kc.

• • La Casa Blu Czech pub meets Latin cantina. Simple tacos, nachos, enchiladas and no shortage of beer. Rowdy. Kozi 15, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2481 8270. Open daily 2 p.m.-midnight. No credit cards. 150-250 Kc.

• • La Creperie French-owned, and it shows. French and Hungarian wines complement the various sweet and savory offerings. Janovskeho 4, Prague 7. Tel. 2087 8040. Open Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.-11 p.m., Sun. 11 a.m-10 p.m. No credit cards. Stravenky. 50-100 Kc.

• • Dong-hai Chinese. An inexpensive -- yet interesting -- Asian menu, directly under the Nusle bridge. Lunch menu until 5 p.m.; take-out available all day. Recommended: ants climbing down a tree, strange taste chicken. Jaromirova 46, Prague 2. (Tram 7, 18 or 24 to Svatoplukova). Tel. 2256 4386. Open daily 10:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. No credit cards. 200-300 Kc.

• • Handi Indian. Delicious, well-prepared fast food. Though short on atmosphere, this downtown eatery comes highly recommended. Chicken buryani, lamb vindaloo and the chicken curry platter are all worth trying. Narodni 23, Prague 1 (near Tesco). Tel. 2422 1888. Open daily 11 a.m.-midnight. No credit cards. 200-350 Kc.

• • • Huang He Chinese. Generous portions expertly prepared -- not for the faint of palate. Recommended: hot-and-sour soup, garlic chicken, Szechuan fish. Vrsovicka 1, Prague 10. (Tram 6, 7 or 24 to Nadrazi Vrsovice.) Tel. 7174 6651, fax: 7174 8012. Open daily 11 a.m.-11 p.m. No credit cards. 200-450 Kc.

• • Klub architektu Czech. A medieval space with clean-lined, modern furnishings and artistically functional ductwork. The food is also functionalist and quirky. Recommended: the Bethlehem mix with pork and shallots. Betlemske nam. 5a, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2440 1214. Open daily 11:30 a.m.-midnight. Major credit cards. 150-300 Kc.

• • • Lotos Vegetarian. Fresh and natural selections available a la carte and on the salad bar plus a well-stocked health-food shop on the premises. No smoking. Platnerska 13, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 232 2390. Open daily 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Euro/ MC, Visa. 200-350 Kc.

• • • Magicka zahrada (Magic Garden) Italian. Rich in atmosphere and showmanship; excellent grilled specials and pastas. A genuine treat awaits diners down in the Nusle valley. Recommended: steak with English bacon, mixed grill, chocolate mousse. Nuselska 159/114, Prague 4-Michle. Tel. 6121 4252. Open daily 11-11. No credit cards. Stravenky (Ticket). 150-300 Kc.

• • • Maly Buddha (Little Buddha) Vietnamese temple food. A fine assortment of teas and light dishes. No smoking. Extremely popular. Recommended: vegetarian spring rolls, Chinese chicken. Uvoz 46, Prague 1-Hradcany. Tel. 2051 3894. Open Tues.-Sun. 1-10:30 p.m. No credit cards. 100-200 Kc.

• • • Na ty louce zeleny (In the Green Meadow) Hidden away in the woods of Krc, this charming restaurant is well worth searching out. Game, steaks and fish, all for a reasonable price. Kunraticka 451, Prague 4. Tel. 471 1820. Open Mon.-Thurs. 3-10 p.m., Fri. 2 p.m.-midnight, Sat.-Sun. 11 a.m.-midnight. No credit cards. 200-250 Kc.

• • Na Vysehrade Czech. Situated in the middle of Vysehrad opposite the neo- Gothic church of Sts. Peter and Paul. Simple and smart. K Rotunde 2, Prague 2. Tel. 2423 9297. Open daily 10-10. No credit cards. 200-350 Kc.

• • Pancho Villa The whole enchilada, as it were. Extensive selection of Tex-Mex specialties, prepared with timid palates in mind. Americka 29, Prague 2-Vinohrady. Tel. 2251 8794. Open daily 11:30 a.m.-1 a.m. No credit cards. 200-400 Kc.

• • Pizza Coloseum Pizza and pasta. Decent Italian food in sizeable portions, though occasionally lacking in subtlety. Often crowded. Recommended: chicken marsala, gnocchi, tiramisu. Vodickova 32, Prague 1. Tel. 2421 4914. Open Mon.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m., Sun. noon-11:30 p.m. Also at Ovocny trh 8, Prague 1. Tel. 2423 8355. Same hours. AmEx, Visa. 100-300 Kc.

• • • Pizzeria Kmotra (Godmother) Pizza. A perennial favorite; hence, the long line for a table. V Jircharich 12, Prague 1 (near Spalena). Tel. 2491 5809, fax: 2492 0182. Open daily 11 a.m.- midnight. No credit cards. Stravenky. 100-250 Kc.

• • • Pizzeria Rugantino This local favorite finished 7th in the World Fantasy Pizza Competition. Request the "white menu." Recommended: pizzas Calabrese, four- cheese, Ezio special. Dusni 4, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2231 8172. Open Mon.-Sat. 11-11, Sun. 6-11 p.m. No credit cards. 250-350 Kc

• • • Pivovarsky dum (Brewhouse) The traditional hospoda meets the modern brew pub. Novel and traditional beers. Recommended: svickova na smetane, goulash, coffee and champagne beers. Lipova 15, Prague 2. Tel. 9621 6666. Open daily 11 a.m.-11:30 p.m. No credit cards. 200-300 Kc.

• • • Potrefena husa (The Wounded Goose) A sports bar a la Soho. Stylish and friendly with good pub food. Recommended: soups in bread bowls, fish and chips. Vinohradska 104, Prague 3-Zizkov. Tel. 6731 0360. Open daily 11:30 a.m.-1 a.m. Major credit cards. 100-300 Kc.

• • Radost FX Cafe Vegetarian. Weekend brunch. Good pastas on Italian night every Sunday. A hip crowd, but erratic service. Open late. Belehradska 120, Prague 2 (near metro I.P. Pavlova). Tel. and fax: 2425 4776, e-mail: radostfx@terminal.cz . Open daily 11:30 a.m.-4 a.m. No credit cards. 100-300 Kc.

• • • Rana Pakistani home cooking. Excellent vindaloos, curries and other treats from the Subcontinent. Not to mention outstanding value. Pizzas, too. Na Dedince 12, Prague 8. Tel. 8384 2613 or (0607) 72 97 58. Open daily, noon-11 p.m. No credit cards. 150-350 Kc.

• • Safir Grill Middle Eastern. This falafel and kebab counter serves up highly affordable hummus, tabbouleh and light salads of spicy chicken and cucumber with yogurt. Havelska 12, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. (0602) 35 82 56. Open Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m.-8 p.m. No credit cards. 100-200 Kc.

• • Sonora Czech-Mex. Skip the chips and salsa for the taco salad, beef burritos and other near-Mexican classics. Radhostska 5, Prague 3-Zizkov. Tel. 2271 1029. Open Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-midnight, Sat.-Sun. 3 p.m.-midnight. No credit cards. 200-350 Kc.

• • • Staroceska Krcma Czech. The Old Bohemian Tavern lives up to its name with both its traditional Czech decor and its well-prepared, hearty food. V.P. Ckalova 15, Prague 6. Open Mon.-Sat. 4 p.m.-midnight. Tel. 2432 1505. No credit cards. 200-300 Kc.

• • Sushi Sandwich Not quite sushi, not quite a sandwich, onigiri here is a prescription for tired tastebuds. Recommended: kappa, tuna, salmon sandwiches, lunch specials, California rolls. Divadelni 24, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2222 1117. Open Mon.-Fri. 11-7. No credit cards.

• • Thrakia Bulgarian. Think "poor man's Greek." A quiet atmosphere with a solid selection of Balkan wines. Great for a date when you're low on funds. Recommended: moussaka, stuffed green pepper, cold cucumber soup "tarator." Rubesova 12, Prague 2 (behind the National Museum). Tel. 2422 3490. No credit cards. Open Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-midnight, Sat. and Sun. 11-11. Under 200 Kc.

• • U 14 Pomocniku (At the 14 Helpers) Primarily pizza. Recommended: pizzas soccorso and tropika, marinated chicken wings. Jecna 15, Prague 2. Tel. 9621 2015. Open Mon.-Fri. 8 a.m.-11 p.m., Sat.-Sun. 10:30 a.m.-11 p.m. No credit cards. 100- 300 Kc.

• • • U Bile kuzelky (At the White Pin) Czech. A maze of passages weirdly decorated and full of clay gargoyles. You get a strolling accordionist for your 30 Kc cover. Excellent garlic and hunter's soups. Misenska 12, Prague 1-Mala Strana. Tel. 5753 0880. Open daily 11 a.m.-11 p.m. No credit cards. 200-350 Kc.

• • • U Sadlu (At the Lard Barrel) Excellent value in a goofy but fun quasi-medieval beerhall environment. The kitchen turns out outstanding tenderloin, hearty soups and other burly fare, but with a certain je ne sais quoi. Klimentska 2, Prague 1 (off Revolucni). Tel. 2481 3874. Open daily 11 a.m.-1 a.m. No credit cards. 150-300 Kc.

• • U sedmi Svabu (At the Seven Swabians) Medieval Czech. A kitschy, minstrelsy good time. Recommended: pickled sausages, pork knee. Jansky vrsek 14, Prague 1- Mala Strana. Tel. 5753 1455. Open daily 11 a.m.-5 p.m. and 7-11 p.m. No credit cards. 200-300 Kc.

• • U Suteru A gracious Czech pub. Simple dishes, good value and kind service. Very busy at peak hours. Palackeho 4, Prague 1 (off Vodickova). Tel. 2494 7120. Open daily, 11-11. No credit cards. Under 200 Kc.

• • • Universal Full of life (and diners). A casual, French-influenced eatery of good value. V Jircharich 6, Prague 1 (off Narodni). Tel. 2491 8182 or 2492 1187. Open daily 11:30 a.m.-midnight. No credit cards. 200-300 Kc.

• • Vcelin (The Apiary) International. Although the food deserves higher billing, this pub's buzz is largely due to the beer-drinking weekend throngs. Recommended: chicken breast with ginger marinade, grilled rabbit with cranberry-pepper sauce, celery salad with apples and walnuts. Kodanska 5, Prague 10-Vrsovice (trams 4, 22 or 23 to Ruska). Tel. 7174 2541. Open Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-midnight, Sat. 11:30 a.m.-1 a.m., Sun. 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Euro/MC, Visa. 250-350 Kc.


Angel Cafe Scrumptious scones and other baked goods, fine wines and genial service. Weekend brunch. Opatovicka 3, Prague 1. Tel. 2493 0019. Open Mon.-Fri 11 a.m.-3 p.m., Sat.-Sun brunch, 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Also open 7-10 p.m. Thurs.-Sat.

Bakeshop Praha This fantastic neighborhood bakery also offers takeaway quiche, salads, soups and casseroles. And really, really great bread. Kozi 1, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2231 6823. Open daily 7-7.

Cafe Belaria The Kampa Island cafe of choice. Good coffees and drinks amid intriguing trompe l'oeil surroundings. Hroznova 6, Prague 1-Mala Strana. No telephone. Open daily 10-10.

Cafe de Paris The ritzy downtown cafe address with occasional jazz combos, highballs and a colorful history, thanks to Bohumil Hrabal's I Served the King of England. At the Hotel Pariz, U Obecniho domu 1, Prague 1. Tel. 2422 2151. Open daily 10 a.m.-midnight.

Cafe Imperial Elegant, ballroom-like atmosphere set to black-tie jazz theme. Live jazz Wed.-Sat. Breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks are also served. Na Porici 15, Prague 1. Tel. 231 6012, e-mail: hotelimperial@razdva.cz . Web site: www.hotelimperial.cz. Open daily 9-1 a.m.

Cafe Konvikt Bright, airy space with plenty of room for lone readers and gossiping groups on the lower level. Bartolomejska 11, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2423 2427. Open Mon.-Fri. 9 a.m.-1 a.m., Sat. and Sun. noon-1 a.m.

Cafe Indigo A vast and chimeric ensemble popular with students and trendy professionals. Inexpensive drinks and a reassuring selection of fair food. Platnerska 11, Prague 1--Old Town. No telephone. Open Mon.-Fri. 9 a.m.-midnight, Sat.-Sun. noon-midnight.

Cafe Louvre A spacious, cheerful cafe where Franz Kafka, Max Brod and their circle used to talk philosophy. Complete menu. Narodni 20, Prague 1. Tel. 2493 0949. Open daily 8 a.m.-11 p.m.

Cafe Montmartre A legend from the First Republic returns. Once a watering hole for legendary Prague figures, Montik is a jewel of cafes. Retezova 7, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2222 1244. Open daily 8 a.m.-11 p.m.

Cafe Orange Bubenec has a beautiful secret. Belgian ice cream, big salads and fresh-squeezed juices. A rare gem. Puskinovo nam. 13, Prague 6-Bubenec. Tel. 311 2821. Open Mon.-Fri. 9 a.m.-11 p.m., Sat.-Sun. 10 a.m.-11 p.m.

Coffee Express Ideal for coffee to go. Espresso, cappuccino, macchiatto and iced coffees -- all of which can be made decaffeinated. Dlouha 39, Prague 1. No telephone. Open Mon.-Fri. 8-8, Sat.-Sun. 10 a.m.-8 p.m.

Dahab A tearoom for the third millenium. Vegetarian couscous, Middle-Eastern desserts and hookahs with flavored tobaccos. For the spiritually inclined. Dlouha 33 at Rybna, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2482 7375. Open daily noon-midnight. AmEx, DC, Euro/MC, JCB, Visa. 120-250 Kc.

Dobra Trafika A cafe, vinotheque and tobacconist's all in one. Poke through the used books or the selection of wines. Small snacks. Korunni 42, Prague 2-Vinohrady. No telephone. Open Mon.-Fri. 6:30 a.m.-11 p.m., Sat. 7:30 a.m.-11 p.m., Sun. 2-11 p.m.

Ebel Coffee House A miracle: coffee of the highest quality in the heart of Old Town. Pure arabicas and custom coffee blends created just for Praguers. Tyn 2, Prague 1- Old Town. Open daily 9 a.m.-10 p.m. Tel. 2489 5788, e-mail: vvv@ebelcoffee.cz . DC, Euro/MC, Visa.

French Institute Cafe Frequented by Praguers and French people alike, including many students, for cheap coffee and croissants, French papers and magazines. Stepanska 35, Prague 1. Tel. 2421 6630. Open Mon.-Fri. 9 a.m.-6 p.m.

The Globe Bookstore and Coffeehouse An expat institution. Coffee and conversation, booze and books. Full menu, with weekend brunch. Pstrossova 6, Prague 1. Tel. 2491 6264. Open daily 10 a.m.-midnight.

Grand Hotel Evropa Faded glory, to be sure, but still crammed to the balcony rails with turn-of-the-century Art Nouveau excesses. The most stylish old nook on Wenceslas Square. Vaclavske nam. 25, Prague 1. Tel 2422 8117. Open daily 9:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Cover may be charged for live music.

Java Kava. The real deal -- fresh coffee and affordable, well-made sandwiches perfect for a take-away lunch or sit-down dining. Praises be! Kralodvorska 11 (behind Kotva). Tel. 2231 0248. Also at Splalena 41 (near metro Narodni Trida). Open Mon.-Fri. 8 a.m. to 8 p.m., Sat.-Sun. 11 a.m.-5 p.m. No credit cards. Stravenky (tickets).

Jazz Cafe c. 14 A classic. Try this the next time you need a quiet night among friends. Opatovicka 14, Prague 1 (near Narodni trida metro station). Tel. 2492 0039. Open Mon.-Fri. 10 a.m.-11 p.m., Sat. and Sun. noon-11.

Juice House Ohmigawd. Have you heard? Fresh juices and smoothies in a shopper's paradise. The strawberry-banana accident is just awesome. Na prikope 3-5, Prague 1 (near metro Mustek). No telephone. Open daily 10-10. No credit cards.

Kava Kava Kava Three-time winner of "Best Coffee in Prague." Quiet courtyard cafe, specialty coffee shop and Internet cafe also has coffee to go and freshly roasted whole-bean coffee. Yummy baked goods, too. Narodni 37 (in the Platyz courtyard opposite Tesco), Prague 1. Tel. 2422 8862. Open Mon.-Fri. 7 a.m.-9 p.m., Sat. and Sun. 9 -9.

Kavarna Archa In a two-level space at the front of the hip Archa Theater. Very popular. Na Porici 26, Prague 1. Tel. 232 4149. Open Mon.-Fri. 9 a.m.-10:30 p.m., Sat. 10 a.m.-10 p.m., Sun. 1-8 p.m.

Kavarna Merkur Inexpensive drinks and food. Live music in the evening. Dlouha 39, Prague 1. Tel. 2482 6838. Open daily 11 a.m.-midnight.

Kavarna Obecni dum This venerable Art Nouveau wedding cake of a building houses a pricey but elegant cafe. Stunning. Nam. Republiky 5, Prague 1. Tel. 2200 2763, fax: 2200 2761, e-mail: kavarna@obecni-dum.cz . Open daily 7:30 a.m.-11 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa.

Kavarna Rudolfinum Spacious, elegantly proportioned room in the Rudolfinum concert hall and art gallery. Alsovo nabr. 12, Prague 1 (namesti Jana Palacha). Tel. 2489 3317. Open daily except Mon. 10 a.m.-6 p.m.

Kavarna Slavia Legendary. The views across the river are unbeatable at Prague's most celebrated literary and theatrical cafe. Narodni at Smetanovo nabrezi., opposite the National Theater, Prague 1. Tel. 2422 0957. Open Mon.-Fri. 8 a.m.-midnight, Sat. and Sun. 9 a.m.-midnight.

Kenvelo Cafe Hardcore coffee culture, thy name is Kenvelo: a sleek and tony espresso bar for the cellular phone crowd. Full menu. Vaclavske nam. 1 (in the Koruna Palace arcade). Tel. 2447 3065. Open daily 8 a.m.-11 p.m.

Meduza Comfy old chairs in which to while away the hours, unusual prints on the walls, and a full range of coffees and teas, light meals and snacks attract a trendy clientele. Belgicka 17, Prague 2. Tel. 2251 5107. Open Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-1 a.m., Sat. and Sun. noon-1 a.m.

Tuzex History hits full-force in this former communist-era luxury goods store. Fresh Bernard beer and house wines from Moravia. Great for mid-town meetings. Stepanska 23, Prague 1-New Town. Tel. 2223 3260. Open Mon.-Fri. 8 a.m.-10 p.m., Sat. and Sun. 9-9. No credit cards.

U modreho psa leziciho naznak That's "At the blue dog lying upside down" to you and me. Coffee and excellent, fresh pastries. Pstrossova 23, Prague 1 (behind the National Theater). No telephone. Open daily 10 a.m.-10. p.m.

U mravence (At the Ant) An unexpectedly hip cafe with gallery space and good wine where you would least expect it -- on Old Town Square. Live music, snacks and excellent coffee. U Radnice 20, Prague 1. No telephone. Open daily 11 a.m.-midnight.

U sv. Vojtecha (At St. Adalbert's) Neighborhood gathering place, light, airy and comfortable, with newspapers-on-a-stick and pleasant service. Vojtesska 14, Prague 1 (behind the National Theater). Tel. 2491 0594. Open Mon.-Fri. 8 a.m.-10 p.m., Sat. 10 a.m.-10 p.m., Sun. 10 a.m.-8 p.m.

U Zeleneho caje The "Green Tea" proffers teas and light meals on busy Nerudova street just below the castle. Nerudova 19, Prague 1. Tel. 5753 0027, fax: 5753 3108, e-mail: tisarkova@volny.cz . Open daily 11 a.m.-10 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa.

Vinoteka U Zlateho hada (At the Golden Snake) Wine shop and cafe. Cozy and neighborly. Maltezske nam. 3. Tel. 5753 1472. e-mail: kavacaj@seznam.cz . Web site: www.zlatyhad.cz. Open Mon.-Fri 10 a.m.-9 p.m., Sat.-Sun. 2-9 p.m.

Vzpominky na Afriku "Memories of Africa" offers the town's widest selection of coffees: more than 30 freshly roasted single-bean varieties, plus flavored and blended coffees. Corner of Rybna and Jakubska, Prague 1 (behind Kotva department store). Tel. (0603) 44 14 34. Open Mon.-Fri. 10 a.m.-7 p.m., Sat. and Sun. 11 a.m.-7 p.m.


Alcohol Bar The new favorite. Great cigars, quality mixed drinks and the largest selection of scotch in the city. Dusni 6, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2481 1744. Open daily 7 p.m.-3 a.m.

Amiveo Authentic Greek dishes and refreshing retsina are the selling points for this subterranean music bar. The house Amiveo plate is highly recommended. Pass the dolmas! Karlovo nam. 24, Prague 2-New Town. Tel. 2223 2382. Open Mon.-Thu. 11:30 a.m.-1 a.m., Fri. 11:30-3 a.m., Sat. 5 p.m.-3 a.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa.

Baracnicka rychta (Small Homeowners Association) Old-fashioned good times. Good, cheap beer and solid pub fare in the heart of Mala Strana. Outdoor seating. Trziste 23, Prague 1-Mala Strana. No telephone. Open daily noon-midnight.

Bebop Bar Dive in for drinks before dinner at the Alcron or La Rotonde, or hang out late for live music. Perfect martinis. Stepanska 40, Prague 1 (at the Radisson SAS Alcron). Tel. 2282 0000. Open daily 10 a.m.-1 a.m.

Bombay Cocktail Bar Where else would you go for a gin and tonic? A spacious, fun bar over Rasoi Indian restaurant. Dlouha 13, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 232 8400 or 232 4040, fax: 232 3340. Open daily 6 p.m.-very late.

Bugsy's Bar The old reliable. Shakes, stirs and tosses excellent cocktails. The drinks list is about the length of The Great Gatsby and nearly as pleasurable to read. Kostecna 2, Prague 1 (Old Town off Parizska). Tel. 232 9943. Open daily 7 p.m.-2 a.m.

Cafe Shabu. Inexpensive, above-average eats and an outstanding soundtrack makes this a favorite with the in-crowd. Palackeho 11, Prague 1. Tel. (0603) 84 75 34. Open daily 10 a.m. to midnight. No credit cards.

Caffrey's Irish Bar Casual atmosphere and full menu on Old Town Square. Staromestske nam. 10, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2482 8031. Open Sun.-Thurs. 9 a.m.-1 a.m., Fri.-Sat. 9 a.m.-2 a.m.

Escape Cocktails. Elegantly casual setting for the cocktail hour or that after-dinner drink. Outstanding cocktails and service. Dusni 8, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2481 8498. Open daily 7 p.m.-2 a.m.

Hapu A cocktail lounge for the rest of us. Expertly prepared drinks in a crash-pad atmosphere. Very, very happening. Orlicka 8, Prague 3-Zizkov. Tel. 2272 0158. Open Mon.-Sat., 6 p.m.-2 a.m.

Hlucna samota (Too Loud a Solitude) This neighborhood pub -- and shrine to Bohumil Hrabal -- also serves up some surprisingly good meals. Zahrebska 14, Prague 2-Vinohrady. Tel. 2252 2839. Open daily 11 a.m.-11 p.m. No credit cards. 200-300 Kc.

Jama A lot like a North American college tavern. Filling food with influences from both hemispheres and good beers from south Bohemia on tap. Brunch served weekends until 5 p.m. V Jame 7, Prague 1 (off Vodickova). Tel. 2422 2383. Open daily 11 a.m.-1 a.m.

James Joyce A cozy and popular Irish pub. Czech, Irish and English beer, stout and ale are usually available. Liliova 10, Prague 1-Old Town (near Betlemske namesti). Tel. 2424 8793. Open daily 10:30 a.m.-12:30 a.m.

Konvikt Pub A local favorite. Traditional Czech dishes and both domestic and imported beers on tap. Breakfast, too. Bartolomejska 11, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2423 1971. Open Mon.-Fri. 9-midnight, Sat.-Sun. 11-midnight.

O'Che's Cuba has washed ashore in the Old Town, or at least a Guinness-addled dream of what Cuba would be like if it were run by Irish revolutionaries instead of Caribbean ones. Liliova 14, Prague 1. Tel. 2222 1178, fax: 2222 0027, e-mail: oche@volny.cz . Open daily 10 a.m.-midnight.

Pasticka (The Little Mousetrap) The future of the neighborhood pub is here. A welcoming spot for excellent beer and good food. Blanicka 25, Prague 2-Vinohrady. Tel./fax: 2225 3228. E-mail: pasticka@pasticka.cz . Web site: www.pasticka.cz. Open Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Sat.-Sun. 5 p.m.-1 a.m. 200-300 Kc.

Pivni galerie (The Beer Gallery). Prague's best collection of Czech and Moravian regional brews -- close to 200 at last count. While ostensibly just a beer store, Petr Vanek's fabulous beer gallery also has chairs and tables for degustation. U Pruhonu 9, Prague 7-Holesovice (trams 12 and 14 to stop U Pruhonu). Tel. 2087 0613. Open Mon.-Fri. 10 a.m.-8 p.m.; Sat. 10 a.m.-1 p.m.

Propaganda Neighborhood cafe and bar. Lively young Czech crowd. Propaganda Cafe and Bar Pstrossova 29, Prague 1 (behind the National Theater) Tel. (0602) 97 50 83, (0606) 44 10 66 Open Mon.-Fri. 3 p.m.-2 a.m., Sat.-Sun. 5 p.m.-2 a.m.

Restaurace Prince Not to be confused with the Old Town Square tourist trap of the same name. Fair food and good beer for the Namesti Bratri Synku neighborhood. Cestmirova 5, Prague 4- Nusle. No telephone. Open daily 11-11. (No restaurant service on Saturday and Sunday.)

St. Nicholas Cafe Another cool expat bar. Trziste 10, Prague 1-Mala Strana. No phone. Open Mon.-Fri. noon-1 a.m., Sat. and Sun. 4 p.m.-1 a.m.

Tom Tom Club Cocktails. A laid-back Mediterranean feel makes this newcomer a good choice for quiet chats and quick coffees as well as a nice Campari on ice. Dlouha 46, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2482 8374. Open Mon.-Fri. 10 a.m.-1 a.m., Sat.- Sun. 11 a.m.-1 a.m.

La Tonnelle Exquisitely French bar and vinotheque. Outstanding value on French wines. Just go. Anny Letenske 18, Prague 2-Vinohrady. Tel. 2225 3690. Open Mon.- Sat. 11:30 a.m.-midnight.

Tretter's Bar Cocktails. The connoisseur's choice. Top-notch cocktails and service in a classic setting. V Kolkovne 3. Prague 1-Old Town. Open daily 7 p.m.-3 a.m. Tel. 2481 1165. No credit cards.

U dvou hrabalu (At the Two Diggers). A welcoming, funky dive in deep Zizkov. Fresh Staropramen and a slightly atypical pub menu, featuring game dishes and updated hospoda classics. Chelcickeho 13, Prague 3-Zizkov. Tel. 2271 6713. Mon.- Fri. 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Sat.-Sun. noon-10 p.m. No credit cards.

U Dzberu (At the Bucket). Pub dishes updated to include ostrich carpaccio and "King Vaclav IV's cathedral," a dish of roast duck with apples. Less showy than a lot of places in the center, though no less cool. Stepanska 14, Prague 1. Tel. 9622 6801. Open daily 11-midnight. No credit cards.

U Maleho Glena (Little Glenn's) Jazz and assorted good times. Good place to meet and be met. Live music every night. Karmelitska 23, Prague 1-Mala Strana. Tel. 5753 8115. Open daily 10 a.m.-1 a.m.

U Kruhu. Fresh beer and a secluded terrace just one block from Wenceslas Square. Does it get any better than this? Palackeho 6, Prague 1. Tel. (0606) 16 19 95, (0602) 266 854. Open daily 11 a.m.-12:30 a.m. No credit cards.

Ultramarin. A newish, bluish spot for cavorting and sipping Czech wine. Ostrovni 32, Prague 1. Tel. 2493 2249. Nightclub open 11 a.m.-4 a.m. daily; cafe open 11 a.m.-11 p.m. daily. No credit cards.

ZanziBar Dry martinis, margaritas and other staples are well mixed by Prague standards. Steepish prices. Ladies' night every Wednesday. Lazenska 6, Prague 1- Mala Strana. No telephone. Open daily 2 p.m.-2 a.m.

Ziznivy pes (The Thirsty Dog) Nick Cave got so bummed out here he had to write a song about it. Everyone else appears to be having a good time. Elisky Krasnohorske 5, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 231 0039. Open daily 11 a.m.-2 a.m.

Zoo Bar A groovy little cellar space with a certain neighborhood-bar vibe. Best in the wee hours. Jilska 18, Prague 1-Old Town. No telephone. Open daily, 5 p.m.-1 a.m. or later.

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